Introduction to Crewel Work

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Crewel work is a hand embroidery technique that utilises fine, twisted wool yarn to produce decorative designs. These often feature botanical or Jacobean-style motifs, worked on a fabric background. The technique employs a wide variety of embroidery stitches to create richly textured patterns, traditionally executed on linen or linen-blend fabrics. Historically, crewel work adorned large-scale household items such as bed hangings and wall coverings. In modern times, it is also popular for embellishing curtains, pillows, and other home furnishings.

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Defining Crewel Embroidery

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Crewel embroidery, also known as crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery that uses wool as its primary thread. Stitchers use a diverse selection of embroidery stitches to follow design outlines applied to the fabric. This technique boasts a history spanning at least a thousand years.

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The defining characteristic of crewel embroidery is not the style of design, but rather the use of crewel wool thread. Modern crewel wool is a fine, one-ply or two-ply yarn available in a wide array of colours. The technique is often associated with England in the 17th and 18th centuries and was subsequently brought to the American colonies, particularly flourishing in New England. American crewelwork typically adopted simpler and more economical stitches and designs due to the scarcity of wool.

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Technique and Materials

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Crewel embroidery is a form of free embroidery, in contrast to counted-thread embroidery like canvas work. The technique reached the height of its popularity in Britain during the 17th century, though its popularity has fluctuated over the years. Traditionally, crewel embroidery is worked on tightly woven linen twill, but in more recent times, fabrics such as Matka silk, cotton velvet, rayon velvet, silk organza, net fabric, and even jute have been used. A sturdy fabric is necessary to support the weight of the stitches created with crewel wool, which is noted for its long staple, fine texture, and strong twist. To execute these stitches, a crewel needle—with a wide body, large eye, and sharp point—is ideal.

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Transferring Designs

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Design outlines may be screen printed directly onto the fabric or transferred using modern tools such as water-soluble or air-soluble ink pens, lightboxes with permanent pens, or iron-on transfer sheets. Traditional methods like the “pinprick and chalk” or “prick and pounce” techniques are still effective. The prick and pounce method involves pricking the design outline on paper to create perforations, then using powdered chalk or pounce and a felt pad or stipple brush to transfer the outline onto the material.

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Design Styles and Patterns

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Crewelwork designs span from traditional to contemporary patterns. The Jacobean embroidery style, for instance, features highly stylised floral and animal designs with flowing vines and leaves. Traditional motifs remain popular, but modern stitchers often experiment with new patterns and themes.

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Stitches and Techniques

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Many embroidery stitches are used in crewelwork to achieve a textured and colourful effect. Unlike silk or cotton embroidery threads, thicker crewel wool gives the work a raised, dimensional quality. Common techniques and stitches include:

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• Outlining stitches such as stem stitch, chain stitch, and split stitch

• Satin stitches for creating flat, filled areas within a design

• Couched stitches, where one thread is laid on the surface and another ties it down, often forming a trellis effect

• Seed stitches, applied randomly to create shaded effects

• French knots, especially in floral and fruit motifs for added texture

• Laid and couched work

• Long and short “soft shading”

 

Applications and Uses

 

In earlier times, crewel embroidery was primarily used for elaborate and costly bed hangings and curtains. Today, it decorates a range of household items including cushions, curtains, clothing, and wall hangings. Recently, objects such as lamp shades and handbags have also become popular projects for crewelwork.

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Tools and Equipment

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Unlike canvas work, crewel embroidery requires the use of an embroidery hoop or frame to stretch the material taut before stitching. This ensures even tension throughout, preventing distortion of the design. Depending on the size of the piece, crewelwork may be executed using anything from a small handheld hoop to a large freestanding frame, also known as a slate frame.

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Historical Examples

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The oldest surviving piece of crewelwork is the Bayeux Tapestry—though technically not a tapestry. This famous work recounts the Norman Conquest and is embroidered on linen with worsted wool. The creators used laid stitches for figures and scenery, couched stitches for outlines, and stem stitch for detail and lettering. The wool used may have originated from Worstead, a village in Norfolk. Few early examples of crewel embroidery survive; the Jamtlands Lans Museum in Sweden holds three related items, the Overhogdals tapestries (11th–12th centuries), depicting people, animals, and various natural and man-made elements. As of 2019, these works are thought to represent the downfall of the world, or Ragnarok.

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What do you need to bead:

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• Embroidery Hoop

• Slate Frame

• Needles

• Canvas

• Wool

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Optional Extras:

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