Introduction to Macramé

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Macramé is a textile art technique that involves creating fabric through the use of knots and hand-tying cords, in contrast to weaving or knitting. This versatile art form employs simple materials such as cords and twine to produce both decorative and functional pieces, including wall hangings, plant holders, jewellery, and bags. Although its origins can be traced back to ancient civilisations such as the Persians and Assyrians, macramé was later refined by Arabic weavers. Throughout history, the craft has experienced waves of popularity, most notably during the Victorian era and the 1970s "hippie" movement, and is presently enjoying a modern resurgence.

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Macramé Techniques

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Macramé is distinguished by its use of knotting methods rather than traditional weaving or knitting. The principal knots utilised are the square knot (also referred to as the reef knot) and various forms of "hitching", which are combinations of half hitches. Sailors have long been associated with macramé, often creating intricate and ornamental knots to cover objects such as knife handles, bottles, and parts of ships.

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One notable style within macramé is Cavandoli macramé, which allows for the creation of geometric and free-form patterns reminiscent of weaving. The Cavandoli approach primarily employs the double half-hitch knot, while reverse half hitches are occasionally used to maintain symmetry when working on balanced pieces.

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Applications and Accessories

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Macramé techniques are frequently applied to accessories such as leather or fabric belts. Friendship bracelets, commonly exchanged among schoolchildren and teenagers, are typically fashioned using macramé methods. In public spaces such as theme parks, shopping centres, and fairs, vendors often sell macramé jewellery and decorative items.

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Historical Origins

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The earliest known use of macramé-style knots as decoration is found in the carvings of the Babylonians and Assyrians, where fringe-like plaiting and braiding were used to embellish costumes and depicted in stone statuary. Arab weavers referred to this decorative cloth as "miqrama", which involved knotting surplus threads along the edges of hand-loomed fabrics like towels, shawls, and veils to form ornamental fringes. The term "macramé" may derive from the Andalusian-Arabic "makramiyya", meaning "striped towel", "ornamental fringe" or "embroidered veil". There is also a theory that the name reached Europe from Arabic through the Turkish "makrama", which means "napkin" or "towel". In northern Africa, these decorative fringes served a practical purpose, helping to keep flies away from camels and horses.

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The Muslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula introduced macramé to Spain and subsequently to Italy, especially the Liguria region, before it spread throughout Europe. In England, macramé was introduced at the court of Mary II in the late 17th century, where Queen Mary taught the craft to her ladies-in-waiting.

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Macramé in the Victorian Era and Beyond

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During the Victorian era, macramé became extremely popular and was commonly used to embellish household items such as tablecloths, bedspreads, and curtains. The well-known "Sylvia's Book of Macramé Lace" (1882) provided instructions for creating elaborate trimmings for garments and household linens. Genoa was a centre for this craft in the 19th century, where it evolved from a 16th-century knotting lace technique called "punto a groppo".

Macramé was a favourite pastime among sailors, who produced items such as hammocks, bell fringes, and belts during their downtime at sea. These pieces were often bartered or sold upon arrival at port. British and American sailors of the 19th century referred to macramé as "square knotting" due to their frequent use of that knot, and also nicknamed it "McNamara's lace".

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After its peak in the Victorian era, macramé's popularity waned but saw a revival in the 1970s, when it was used in the creation of wall hangings, clothing accessories, bedspreads, tablecloths, draperies, plant hangers, and other home furnishings. Macramé jewellery, made using mainly square and granny knots, often featured handmade glass beads and natural elements such as bone and shell. Necklaces, anklets, and bracelets became especially popular. However, by the early 1980s, the trend faded, with only a brief resurgence among millennials in the late 2010s.

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Materials and Tools

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Macramé utilises a variety of cords, such as cotton twine, linen, hemp, jute, leather, or yarn. Cords are classified by their construction, for example, a 3-ply cord comprises three lengths of fibre twisted together. Jewellery pieces are commonly crafted using a combination of knots and beads made from materials such as glass, wood, or shells. Sometimes, unique focal points like rings or gemstones are incorporated, either wire-wrapped or enclosed within a net-like arrangement of overhand knots.

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A knotting board is often employed to secure cords during macramé work, with tools such as C-clamps, straight pins, T-pins, U-pins, or upholstery pins used to hold the cords in place. For larger decorative items like wall hangings or window coverings, the work may begin on a wooden or metal dowel to accommodate a spread of cords. For smaller projects, push-pin boards designed for macramé or simple corkboards are suitable. Craft shops frequently provide starter kits, work boards, beads, and materials at various price points, catering to both casual enthusiasts and dedicated crafters.

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What do you need to Macrame:

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• Macrame cord

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Optional Extras:

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• Craft rods

• Wooden beads

• Wooden craft rings

• Wooden animal craft rings

• Metal 'S' hook

• T-pins

• Macrame board

• Bag handles

• Metal shaped rings